Monk Chat at Wat Suan Dok in Thailand

Three nights a week Wat Suan Dok hosts a monk chat for foreigners. The idea is that the foreigners learn about Buddhism and the monks practice their English. Wat Suan Dok has a Buddhist university in Chiang Mai, mostly populated by monk students from the countries surrounding Thailand. The classes are in English, mostly, so the monks like to practice the language.

A red truck taxi dropped me inside the temple grounds in front of monk chat. I sat down in a bright blue plastic chair and was swarmed by fluorescent orange robes wrapped around swarthy bodies. The conversations started out with polite “how are you’s,” “Where are you from’s,” and “what is your name’s.” Most of the monks were from Cambodia. They were from poor families and had entered the monkhood so they could afford to study. Otherwise, their families wouldn’t have been able to afford to give them an education.

I wanted to talk to the monks about something other than Buddhism. For me it is more interesting to know about what they do in daily life, how they feel about the outside world and their internal dialogues about living the life of a monk. I asked if they ever thought about de-robing and starting a family. They all got a sheepish look in their eyes. One monk shyly expressed a slight hope in this dream. I think he was on the brink of this decision. I could understand how if one joined the monkhood solely for the sake of their education, they may one day dream of leaving the monkhood and once again leading a normal life after studying. Yet, somehow this question seemed to signal to the monks that I was interested in them. They became overtly flirtatious, asking me about boyfriends and dirty jokes.

(Thai Buddhist Monk circling a stupa)

They proudly told me about their Ipods and asked if I liked to dance to Shakira. I said yes. They asked if I could dance for them. I said maybe later. They giggled. These monks, I fear, have not overcome desire.

Another monk offered to give my friend a guided tour around the monastery. She accepted, of course. The monk, however, had ulterior motives for being alone with her. While walking, he asked her very personal questions about sex. She felt a little uncomfortable, but also in her naivety trusted the integrity of the monk’s vows of purity. Their conversation spiraled out of control and it reached its peak when the monk stated, “It would be okay if you touched me by accident. I wouldn’t tell anyone.” My friend took that as her cue to rejoin the group.

It was enlightening to see this side of the monks. Most people see them as spiritually enlightened and pure, but this monk chat showed a completely human side of the monks. They may be working towards holiness, but they are still humans with human desire. They are not quite perfect just because they shaved their heads and donned orange robes.